On the Pacific Coast there is a dish called pescado zarandeado, which is a fish that has been marinated in an adobo before being grilled. ‘Every family has its own recipe for this sauce. It’s all about our ability to be flexible and work with the available produce – the rhythm of nature should be reflected in our menus, not the other way around.’ Of course techniques are important but the most relevant thing is having good- quality ingredients. ‘This classic cookbook resonates a lot with what I am trying to do in all my kitchens right now. I’ll always remember the fantastic citrus jam we made – not too sweet or bitter and with the perfect texture.’ After that visit we invited her to Casa TEO, a sort of artist residence for chefs, to organise a workshop. She uses organic fruit and only the absolute necessary amount of sugar. The flavour was so strong but fresh, natural and delicate. ‘During a trip here a year or so ago I tasted jam made by June Taylor. It’s one of my favourite drinks to have in the morning – I find great comfort in it.’ The mix of spices in a masala chai is an example of how complex simplicity can be. ‘Over the past few years I’ve developed an appreciation for simple things. I also love the sight of miso soup and I have to quote Japanese writer Jun’ichirō Tanizaki because he found the perfect words to describe it: “When I saw the muddy, clay-like colour, quiet in a black lacquer bowl beneath the faint light of a candle, this soup that I usually take without a second thought seemed somehow to acquire a real depth.”’ ‘I like how versatile this ingredient is and its power to highlight several elements in a dish. Afterwards, I learned that the insects live underground and only fly out of the ant-hill once a year after the first rain – people wait for this moment to catch them.’ Their smoky, delicate taste blew my mind. While we were waiting for our food, I saw a woman adding these big ants to the mortar in which she was mixing all the ingredients for the salsa. ‘I was travelling here with friends and at some point we stopped at a small restaurant by the roadside. He reveals his kitchen finds from across the planet The man whose Mexico City restaurant Pujol is the country's hardest reservation to snag now has a beach outpost on the Pacific Coast.
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